29 November 2008

Round the Taupo


So we decided to take our sporting a bit more seriously and we registered ourselves onto Round the Taupo [http://www.cyclechallenge.com] last Saturday (29/11), which is sort of non-competitive race around the biggest New Zealand lake, roughly 160km on road. There were also shorter variants on the MTB tracks, that we denied, and also longer options where you can do this circuit twice or four times, which seemed to us "a bit too much for now". At the end the quickest guy doing this category did that (640km!) for something under 24hrs, which is under 6hrs per lap!

Weather was very good, in fact maybe a bit too hot. But finally we have in relaxed tempo (although Jana may disagree with this formulation), did all the 160km in a bit ovet 7.5hrs on our MTBs but with road 1 inch tires. Considering we did not train for this event at all i think it was quite good ;)

You can see the map and some pictures below.



Tak jsme se rozhodli se zapojit vice do sportovna, a zaregistrovali jsme se na Round the Taupo [http://www.cyclechallenge.com] minulou sobotu (29/11), coz je vicmene nesoutezni zavod okolo nejvetsiho Zelandskeho jezera Taupo, bratru 160km po asfaltu. Jeste existovaly kratsi varianty na horskem kole, ktere jsme ale zavrhli a potom delsi varianty, ty ale znamenaly jet to "kolecko" dvakrat nebo ctyrikrat, coz nam pripadlo pro zacatek "trochu vic nez dost". Nakonec ale nejrychlejsi muzik na te nejdelsi trati (640km!) toto ujel za necelych 24 hodin, coz je pod 6h na jedno kolo!

Pocasi nam pralo, bylo mozna az trochu moc horko. Nakonec jsme volnym tempem (i kdyz Janca by mozna s touhle formulaci moc nesouhlasila), projeli celou 160km trat za neco pres 7.5hodiny na nasich horskych kolech, ovsem se slinicnnimi 1 palcovymi plasti. Na to ze jsme na tuto akci nedelali zadny trenink to nebylo myslim vybec spatne.

Dole muzete videt mapku a nejake fotky.


Map of the race|Mapa zavodu
Bike storage|Uschova kol
Start
Getting closer to Tongariro volcanos|Blizime se k Tongariro sopkam
No comment|Bez komentare

8 November 2008

Wild Wellington Mountain Bike Relay


Shortly after our return from South America Jana had working weekend and I was thinking what to do. Choosing between one day volleybal tournament in Palmerston (2hrs drive from here) or bike race in Wellington, and you can guess what I've finally decided for.

Wild Wellington Mountain Bike Relay [http://www.wildwellington.co.nz/site/wild_wellington_relay/] is MTB relay race on hilly circuit in Wellington park, that goes even for 6 or 12 hours. We went for the 12 hrs option, staring at 10am and finishing just at 10pm, so the last rides were with lights at night. There was eight of us so we formed two teams of four and because none of our employers was willing to support us, we accepted kind offer from children charity [www.savethechildren.org.nz] and we represented them in their red shirts ...

Results were not bad, we didn't finished in the very bottom, but most of all it was great fun ;)



Kratce po tom co jsme se vratili z Jizni Ameriky Janca mela pracovni vikend and ja jesm premyslel co budu delat ja. Mel jsem na vyber mezi jednodennim volejbalovym turnajem v Palmerston North (2 hodiny autem odsud) anebo zavod na horskych kolech, tak muzete hadat pro co jsem se rozhodl.

Wild Wellington Mountain Bike Relay [http://www.wildwellington.co.nz/site/wild_wellington_relay/] je stafetovy zavod horskych kol na kopcovatem okruhu ve Wellingtonskem parku, ktery se jede 5 nebo 12 hodin. Vybrali jsme si 12-ti hodinovou variantu, ktera startovala v 10 rano a koncila v 10 vecer, takze poslednich par kol se jelo se svetly v noci. Bylo nas osm, tak jsme zformovali 2 tymy po ctyrech a protoze zadny z nasich zamestnavatelu nebyl ochoten nas podporit, prijali jsme nabidku detske charity [www.savethechildren.org.nz] a tak jsme v cervenych trickach reprezentovali je...

Vysledky nebyly nejhorsi, skoncili jsme dostatecne daleko od konce tabulky, ale hlavne to byla docela dobra zabava ;)


Team photo|Tymove foto
Some teams had costumes|Nektere tymy mely slusive kostymy
Into next lap|Do dalsiho kola
Finishing the lap|Konec kola

18 October 2008

Back in New Zealand | Zpatky na Zelande


Today in early morning we have arrived back from Equador through Chile to New Zealand. Still waiting for domestic flight to Wellington, we are now still in the Auckland airport.
We have brought about 22GB of pictures and 8,5 hours of recorded video so you can



Dnes brzo rano jsme uz prileteli z Ekvadoru pres Chile zpatky na Zeland a prave na letisti v Aucklandu cekame na letadlo do Wellingtonu.
Privezli jsme asi 22GB obrazku a 8,5 hodin natoceneho videa tak muzete nekdy v budoucnu ocekavat nektere z nich na nasem webu www.uuholo.org

16 October 2008

Galapagos saliling | Galapagy z lode


The Galapagos Islands are simply stunning. Absolutely beautiful, full of wildlife. You don't know where to look first - hundreds of iguanas, either those living on land or in the water, huge turtles, land or marine ones, different species of sharks, fish, sea lions etc. If you look around (although you don't have to as all animals are so close) you will see tens of different types and species of birds. Bird watchers are in their paradise. We are not experts but by the end of the trip we were able to recognise without almost any troubles frigatebirds, boobies, tropicbirds, gulls, pelicans, albatrosses, egrets, herons, mockengbirds, oystercatcher, finches (just in general, do not ask us for specific subspecies!) and many more.

Snorkeling and diving is a chapter itself. Although water is not very warm - still reasonable compare to New Zealand - about 18 degrees, it's amazing. I have to say I was really surprised how much you can see while snorkeling. The highlight were turtles! You can swim with them, just next to them, touch them lightly, be carried together by the current. It felt so good and so natural. Again, plenty of fish.

Cachalote, our boat, became our home for 8 days. We've got one of the best cabins - the best if you don't mind choppy sea! We were in the front on upper deck so we were the only one with big window and almost matrimonial bed (my half of the bed was a bit shorter so I had to sleep awry). Each cabin had shower and toilet, some had a wardrobe, and all of them were air-conditioned. Our cabin was just one step away from the dining room. Very convenient. All together 16 passengers on board plus guide, captain and other 5 crew members.

One of the reasons for choosing Cachalote was it's itinerary. Cachalote visits San Isabella and Fernandina on islands while most of other boats skip these islands, because hey are quite far away - whole night (and bit) of navigation.

First day we boarded in the morning not far from the Baltra airport and after short navigation we visited South Plaza Island (small island not far from one of our diving spots - Gordon Rocks) and then got anchored in Puerto Ayora for the night. South Plaza island is a small island full of land and marine iguanas (we have seen one hybrid as well) and there is also sea lions colony, which is unfortunately getting smaller and smaller year by year. Marine iguanas are darker and have longer, stronger tail. They live 40 - 60 years and are very good climbers (could climb steep cliffs). From the birds we liked Red-billed Tropicbird which has incredible long tiny tail - reaching 1 meter. Nazca boobies and brown pelicans were also interesting for us, ordinary people without special bird knowledge and with no specific interest. But Magnificent Frigatebirds were really outstanding. Males are all black with a scarlet throat pouch which is inflated like a balloon in the breeding season, but as we were there in October we didn't see any of those. Bird kept following us for many hours as we sailed and navigated to other islands. The Magnificent Frigatebird is over 100 cm long with a 215 cm wingspan. Another bird unique for Galapagos is Swallow-tailed Gull - his red eyes are unmistakable. Many times we saw Yellow Warbler, bright small bird. First dinner on board was accompanied by welcome coctail.

Second day we spent on the main island - Santa Cruz. The morning visit was to Charles Darwin's research centre, interesting to visitors for it's turtles. From little ones, weighting 100g up to huge land turtles weighting over 400kg. You might have heard of "Lonely George" - the last turtle of its kind. They found him on one island and he has been moved to Charles Darwin research centre in eighties. George - who was found in 1971 and is the last Geochelone abingdoni - is the rarest living creature on earth. Attempts to find a mate for him have so far failed miserably and if he doesn't produce offspring, his death will spell extinction for the species. They haven't been successful for last 30 years and suddenly 3 months ago they found out one turtle might have little ones with George. They have to wait now to see if little turtles will be healthy (takes couple years), than another 40 years to wait to see if turtle would be productive and new generation of turtles could be born. In general turtles could live for about 200 years, so George aged about 100 years now is in his best years. In the afternoon we visited highlands of Santa Cruz, still on the main island. Bird watchers went crazy after seeing Vermillion flycatcher - a beautiful bird, even for us, amateurs! Another place were twin craters called Los Gemelos - huge holes fallen down, they call it depressions. These are actually sinkholes, not craters. The last stop was at private farm where they have many land turtles. Compared to morning ones these turtles living at the farm were very shy, obviously not used to that many visitors. Apparently winds were good so sails went up. It was first time for both of us to be actually sailing. It takes a while to get use to the fact the boat is constantly on side and is bouncing up and down. Seasickness pills helped us to enjoy it to the full! We were on watch for dolphins and whales, but we saw only one dolphin.

Third day - After long navigation we have arrived to Espanola island during the early morning. Espanola is the island with the biggest and mostly healthy growing population of turtles. In Garden bay we had our first wet landing on beach (from little 'panga' you get to the water first; on dry landing you step directly on dry land, without getting your food wet). White sand and lots of marine iguanas. Sea lions were spread all over the beach, usually whole families, just enjoying the sun. One little one was so funny, he has probably just couple of days old and he went after mums milk but he still could find the right spot and kept sucking her ear. Before the lunch we went snorkeling, little sea lions joined us for a swim and bit of fun. In the afternoon we were back at the island, on Punta Suarez, watching marine iguanas again, these ones were black&red, we saw marine turtles and first time blue-footed boobies. As the name says it, this bird has blue feet. They are not shy at all, you could go very close, and they made very interesting sounds. We saw couples dancing and singing - part of call-note. We were lucky enough to see little (!!!) albatrosses. First 6 months they spend on the island, not flying, just eating. Not surprising they gain about 7 kilos. But to be able fly they then have to loose about 3,5 kilos. We got another sailing in the evening. This time we saw whales breathing but didn't get close enough to actually see them. Highlight was a ray jumping out of the water. He jumped probably a meter high and went down with big splash.

Fourth day - Floreana island. Just short navigation so no seasickness permitted. The morning visit was full of flamingos. There were not that many as at Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia but still - very photogenic. I didn't know that colour tone depends on what they eat. I'm still not sure what do they eat to become so beautifully pink. If anyone knows, let me know, I'll add to my diet. After watching flamingos we have new experience with marbled rays. They were in shallow waters on the beach and you just went to wate to your ankles, and they were all around, being carried with each wave back and forth. Amazing feeling. Unless you would step on one of them. Their front and bottom is "safe", it's the tail that can be dangerous. Just stay still and watch. Snorkeling was even better than the last time. Before we went to sea we saw Galapagos sharks just next to our boat. In water there were white-tipped sharks, plenty of fish, cow rays, spotted rays, sea lions. There was very strong current which took us along the big rock.We went for this "ride" twice, it was just great! After lunch we visited Post Office Bay. There are two main attractions (if I don't count that there is a football field where crew and sometimes tourist could play football). Lava tunnel is first and post office barrel is the second. The post office barrel is a tradition from old days where there was no post system as we know it today. Sailors left a letter or a note in the barrel and if someone who was passing by was from near the addressee he would pick up the letter and personally deliver it. The same think should happened today. You can leave a postcard or a letter and someone else will pick it up and personally deliver it to the address. As we have learned, our letters were picked up by Czech, who did bring them back to Czech rep, but post it from there. The last step, personal delivery, was missing there.

Fifth day - After another long sailing we have reached Isabella Island - the one which is being missed by most of the other cruises. Island itself is very young and is the biggest island of the archipelago, is over 100 kms long and extremely narrow. First stop was at Punta Morena. We walked through lava fields. The sharp lava is called 'aa lava' and not sharp, smooth one is called 'hoihoi lava'. We saw some flamingos again. But white-tipped sharks definitely got most of our attention. There is a lagoon, connected to sea by a tunnel, and sharks are coming to there. At one moment there were four of them and we kept watching them and couldn't stop taking pictures. Snorkeling is getting better, water is cold but swimming with turtles is worth of it. Afternoon we spend in 'pangas' as you can't land at Elisabeth bay. We saw turtles mating, sea lions had fun in lagoons (where you can't use the engine, so the paddle is the only power) and penguins showed up almost at the end. The ride back was improved by stunning sunset - actually first proper sunset which we have seen during the cruise (but not the last one). We stayed on the top deck till darkness. There was no navigation that evening so we all enjoyed quiet night.

Sixth day - again on Isabella Island, this time at Urbina Bay. This place has changed completely in 1954. It's a flat area which has been formed by an uplift in that year. The land was lifted up by 3 to 7 meters, 6 kilometers along the coast and 1,3 kilometer into current inland . Few years ago they managed to get rid of goats which resulted in increase of Galapagos hawks - probably 75,000 goats gave them enough to eat. You can even see rest of corals inland there. Plenty of land iguanas, you could see them suffering from not having enough food at this time of the year. Skin was quite loose on many of them. Michal was a hero and decided to follow guide and walked barefoot. He managed to get through all paths, sharps stones but hot sand at the end was real challenge. He didn't give up even then but was very happy for any shade provided him with a bit of relief from boiling sand. What a relief to jump into water and go snorkeling from the beach! Water was nice, 22 degrees, even I swam without wetsuit. Next stop was at Fernandina island, on Punta Espinosa, the most western island visited. Hundreds of giant marine iguanas. On the rock they looked like an army waiting for command. Flightless cormorant has lost his ability to flight at Galapagos and by that became better swimmer. They don't have predators there, there is plenty of food, either in the water or at the island. Long navigation ahead of us. Again we were on watch for whales and dolphins. We haven't seen many dolphins, only couple jumping next to our boat. But we saw many orcas. Sun was just getting down and I spotted them, with bevy of birds above them. It was near equator, Volcan Ecuador, when they came. Orcas were coming up and down, many of them, one came really close to our boat, less then 10 meters. As it was quite dark by then it was hard to get a picture or movie. Shortly after orcas excitement we passed the equator. Amaretto cocktails on captain to celebrate. Apparently if you are on equator water run straight down to drain, no whirl at all. On the south it makes whirl to twist clockwise, on the north other way around. Egg stands on its end without any troubles. All this applies to mainland of course, hard to see it on the boat. The most interesting is the fact that if you try to walk with closed eyes on the line drawn at equator, you will experience a lots of trouble.

Seventh day - Santiago Island. Great place for watching fur seals. They have bigger eyes, pointed nose and denser fur. We saw huge marine iguanas (again) and yellow-crowned night herons. Firstly, before lunch, we snorkeled from the beach and Michal found huge sleeping marbled ray. We floated around him for long minutes but ray didn't move. There were plenty of coral fish and huge turtles again. As it wasn't very deep with great visibility and we got some beautiful photos. After lunch we went on pangas for another snorkeling spot. This one is well know for presence of Galapagos penguins. We were lucky enough to see five or six of them. Only one was swimming, others just enjoy relaxing on the rocks. We got quite close to them, we could have almost touched them if we wanted but we were just watching them. We were in the water and they were on rocks rising from water. You don't get that close every day. Moment to enjoy. Again, visibility was great, but as I took many photos during morning snorkeling (and I didn't recharge the battery in between snorkeling), a battery didn't last too long. We still got reasonable photos. After snorkeling we stopped at Bartolome island known for great views. So after ascending 365 steps, you reach the top of island and see many craters and sea is all around. Sun was shining, wind blowing as in Wellington and taking photos was great fun. This evening we had cake and farewel cocktails on the board.

Eight day - still one more adventure to go! Morning ride in pangas to watch blue-footed boobies feeding. Hundreds of them gain together and go feeding together.
Blue-footed Boobies are specialized fish eaters feeding on school fish like sardines, anchovies, mackerel, and flying fish. They also feed on squid and offal. They dive into the ocean, sometimes from a great height, and swims underwater in pursuit of its prey. We saw this huge bevy of boobies diving straight into ocean, having their breakfast and it was time for us to finish our trip with the good breakfast as well.

It was a fantastic trip. Only one question remains - who is going to organize all those photos and edit the video?



Galapagy jsou proste uzasne. Absolutne prekrasne a plne zivota. Nevite kam se podivat nejdriv - stovky leguanu, at uz vodnich anebo suchozemskych, obrovske zelvy suchozemske i o neco mensi morske, ruzne druhy zraloku, ryb, lvounu a dalsich. Kdyz se podivate okolo (i kdyz ani moc nemusite, protoze vsechna zvirata jsou docela blizko), uvidite desitky ruznych druhu ptaku. Ptackari jsou tady ve svem zivlu. My nejsme v tomto oboru experti, ale ke konci vyletu jsme byli schopni rozeznat bez vetsich problemu frigaty (frigatebirds), boobies, tropicke ptaky (tropicbirds), racky, pelikany, albatrosy, volavky, herony, mockengbirds, oystercatcher, finche (a nektere jejich poddruhy) a mnohem vice.

Snorchlovani a potapeni je kapitola sama o sobe. Prestoze voda neni moc tepla - porad ale jeste docela tepla v porovnani se Zelandem - okolo 18 stupnu celsia, je to uzasny zazitek. Byla jsem prekvapena, kolik se toho da videt pri snorchlovani. Asi nejlepsi byly zelvy! Muzete s nimi plavat, primo vedle nich, jemne se dotknout jejich krunyre nebo se nechat spolecne s nimi unaset proudem. A je to uplne prirozene. A znovu, spousta ryb.

Cachalote, nase lod, se stala nasim domovem na 8 dni. Dostali jsme jednu z nejlepsich kabin, tedy aspon pokud vam nevadi rozbourene more. Byli jsme vepredu na horni palube a tak jsme byli jedina kabina s velkym oknem a temer manzelskou posteli (moje strana postele byla o neco kratsi tak jsem musela spat skrcena). Kazda kabina mela sprchu a zachod, nektere mely i skrin, vsechny klimatizovane. Nase kabina primo sousedila s jidelnou. Docela pohodlne. Na palube bylo celkem 16 pasazeru a pruvodce, kapitan a dalsich 5 clenu posadky.

Jeden z duvodu proc jsme si vybrali tuto lod byla planovana trasa. Cachalote mela v harmonogramu navstevu ostrovu San Isabella a Fernandina. Vetsina ostatnich tur tyto ostrovy vynechavaji, protoze jsou docela daleko - celou noc (a o neco vic) plavby.

Prvni den rano jsme se nalodili blizko letiste a po kratke plavbe jsme navstivili South Plaza ostrov (maly ostrov nedaleko jednoho z nasich potapecich mist - Gordon Rocks) a zakotvili jsme v Puerto Ayora, hlavnim meste, na noc. South Plaza ma spoustu vodnich a suchozemskych leguanu (taky jsme videli jednoho hybrida), zaroven je tam kolonie lvounu, ktera se bohuzel kazdorocne zmensuje. Morsti leguani jsou tmavsi a maji delsi a silnejsi ocas. Ziji 40 - 60 let a jsou vyborni lezci (mohou vylezt hodne strme utesy). Z ptaku jsme videli cervenozobakove tropicke ptaky, kteri maji neskutecne dlouhy tenounky ocasek - skoro metr dlouhy. Nazca boobies a hnedi pelikani byli pro nas laiky take zajimavi. Obrovske frigaty byli ovsem neco neskutecneho. Samecci jsou cerni a takovym jakoby 'priveskem' na krku, ktery se nafoukne v dobe vabeni. Zrejme to pusobi na samicky pozitivne, protoze techto ptaku byly mraky. Vzhledem k tomu, ze jsme tam byli v rijnu, zadne jsme nevideli. Zrovna nebyla sezona na pareni. Ptaci nam nami plachtili dlouhe hodiny, zatimco jsme pluli. Tyto frigaty jsou pres metr dlouhe s rozpetim kridel okolo 215 cm. Dalsi ptaci, kteri jsou typicti pro Galapagy, jsou 'swallow-tailed' rackove. Casto jsme videli 'Yellow Warbler' - nevim jak to prelozit, protoze ruzne druhy Warbleru jsou do cestiny prekladany uplne jinak - napr. rakosnik, sedmihlasek, budnicek, cvrcilka a penice. Tak si vyberte, ale 'zlutaka' jsem nenasla. Prvni vecer nas kapitan pozval na koktejl na privitanou.

Druhy den jsme stravili na hlavnim ostrove, Santa Cruz. Rano jsme navstivili vyzkumnou stanici Charlese Darwina. Pro navstevniky jsou asi nejzajimavejsi zelvy. Od tech nejmensich, ktere vazi 100g, az po obrovske suchozemske zelvy vazici 400 kg. Mozna jste slyseli o "Lonely George - Opustenem Georgovi" - posledni zelve sveho druhu. Nasli ho osamoceneho na jednom z ostrovu a presunuli ho na stanici v osmdesatych letech. George - ktery byl objeven v roce 1971 a je poslednich druhem Geochelone abingdoni - je nejvzacnejsi zivocich na zemi. Zkouseli mu najit druzku, coz se dlouho nedarilo. Pokud George nezplodi potomky, cely druh vyhyne. Tricet let a nic a najednout pred treti mesici zjistili, ze jedna zelva ceka s Georgem potomka. Proces je dlouhy. Nyni nezbyva nez cekat. Teprve cas ukaze, zda mladata budou zdrava (par let cekani), dalsich priblizne 40 let bude nutnych, aby se vedela, zda potomek bude schopen dalsi reprodukce. S teprve pak se uvidi, jestli druh Geochelone abingdoni bude zachranen. Vseobecne zelvy ziji asi 200 let, takze George je ve svych priblizne 100 letech v nejlepsim veku. Odpoledne jsme navstivili vysociny na ostrove. Ptackaci byli celi bez sebe, kdyz videli Vermillion flycatcher - cerveneho lejska. Dalsi zastavka byla na Los Gemelos - 'dvojcatech' - kraterech, kde se propadl strop lavovych jeskyn a tento propad vytvoril obrovske diry. Posledni misto, ktere jsme na ostrove navstivili byla soukroma farma se spoustou suchozemskych zelv. V porovnani s zelvama ze stanice, tyto zelvy byly velmi plache. Zrejme nejsou zvykle na davy turistu. Vecer byl priznivy vitr, tak sly lodni plachty nahoru. Poprve v zivote jsme skutecne plachtili. Chvili trvalo si zvyknout na skutecnost, ze lod je permanentne naklonena a porad to houpe nahoru, dolu ale tablety proti morske nemoci nam pomohly si to poradne uzit. Hledali jsme delfiny a velryby. Videli jsme jen jednoho delfina, ale stejne to byla super plavba.

Treti den. Rano, po dlouhe preplavbe, jsme prijeli na Espanola ostrov. Espanola ma nejvetsi a nejvice se rozvijejici populaci zelv. V Garden Bay jsme meli prvni morke pristani (z male lodky, ktere se rika 'panga' vystoupis u brehu do vody; v pripade sucheho pristani vystupujes primo na pevninu). Spousta bileho pisku a hodne suchozemskych leguanu. Rodiny lvounu okupovaly celou plaz, mali i stari jen tak tam polehavali a uzivali si slunicka. Jeden byl obzvlaste legracni. Byl to prcek, asi jen par dni stary, ktery chtel sosat mamino mliko, ale porad se mu nedarilo najit ten spravny cudlik. Vzdycky skoncil u ucha a to sosal. Pred obedem jsme sli snorchlovat, mali lvouni se k nam pridali, tak jsme plavali spolecne. Odpoledne jsme se vratili na ostrov do Punta Suarey a pozorovali znovu morske leguany, tihle byli cerno-cerveni, taky jsme videli morske zelvy a poprve se nam podarilo spatrit blue-footed boobies. To jsou takovy srandovni ptaci s tyrkyskovyma nohama. Nejsou vubec plasi, muzes se dostat docela blizko, a vydavaji velmi zajimave zvuky. Videli jsme jich par tancit a zpivat - je to proces vabeni. Meli jsme stesti a videli jsme male (!!!) albatrosy. Prvnich 6 mesicu zustavaji na ostrove, nelitaji, jen jedi. Neni zadnym prekvapenim ze diky bohate zivotosprave behem tohoto casu priberou az 7 kilo. Ale potom aby mohli zacit letat, museji nejdrive zhodit 3,5 kila. Vecer jsme zase natahli plachty a plachtili na dalsi ostrov. Tentokrat jsme videli v dalce sloupy par od velryb, ale nepodarilo se nam dostat tak blizko, aby jsme je videli zblizka. Zlatym bodem preplavby byl rejnok skakajici z vody. Vyskocil asi metr vysoko a pri dopadu na hladinu to pekne placlo!


Den ctvrty - Ostrov Floreana. Tentokrate zadna morska nemoc, nebot plavba byla hodne kratka. Cele rano jsme se kochali plamenaky. Sice jich nebylo tolik jako v Bolivii na Salar de Uyuni, ale to jim nic neubralo na krase a fotogenicnosti. Dozvedela jsem se ze jejich barva se odviji od toho, co jedi. Porad mi ale neni jasne co jedi, ze jsou tak nadherne ruzovi. Jestlize nekdo ze ctenaru vi toto tajemstvi, dejte mi vedet a ja si lehce pozmenim jidelnicek. Jakmile se nam plamenaci okoukali, presunuli jsme se na plaz na opacne strane ostrove a veskerou nasi pozornost jsme soustredili na rejnoky (marbled rays). Byli hned u brehu, v melke vode. Staci byt ve vode po kotniky a oni byli vsude okolo, voda je unasela ke brehu a zpatky. Zajimava zkusenost jak si to kolem vas plavou. Akorat se na ne nesmi stoupnout, to by pak byl prusvih. Jejich predni a spodni casti nejsou nebezpecne, ale ocas je to, ceho se vsichni obavaji. Jen tak postavat, pozorovat a nic se nestane. Snorchlovani bylo jeste lepsi nez posledne. Predtim, nez jsme sli snorchlovat, tak jsme z lodi pozorovali Galapagske zraloky. Jen si prohlizeli nasi lod hodne zblizka. Ve vode potom byli white-tipped sharks (zralok s bilymi cipy ploutvi), moc ruznych ryb, rejnoci (cow ray, spotted ray) a lvouni. Byl tam hodne silny proud, ktery nas unasel podel skaly. "Jeli" jsme to dvakrat. Proti proudu se moc plavat nedalo a tak jsme houpli znova do pangy a skocili do vody podruhe. To byla jizda! Po obede jsme navstivili Post Office Bay - Postovni zaliv. Jsou tu dve hlavni atrakce (nepocitam-li fotbalove hriste, kde posadky a obcas turisti hrajou fotbal). Prvni je lavovy tunel a postovni sud je druhym navstevovanym mistem. Postovni sud je tradici z dob, kdy neexistoval postovni system jak jej zname dnes. Namornici nechavali dopisy v sudu a kdyz nekdo kdo bydlel pobliz jejich mista nasel dopis, vzal jej a osobne jej dorucil na uvedenou adresu. Stejne by to melo fungovat i dnes. Nechas tam dopis nebo nejaky vzkaz a pokud turista nejde neco co ma prijit blizko jeho bydliste, mel by pohled nebo dopis vyzvednout a osobne dorucit. Jak jsme se dozvedeli, nase pohledy byly vyzvednuty Cechem, ale po CR uz cestovali s Ceskou Postou. Osobni doruceni tentokrat chybelo. Presto pohledy dorazily asi o 3 tydny rychleji nez ty, ktere jsme poctive oznamkovali a poslali klasickou postou. Pohled na NZ jeste porad nedorazil.

Den paty - po dalsi dlouhe preplavbe jsme dorazili na ostrov Isabela - tento ostrov je casto vynechavan pri ostatnich plavbach prave kvuli dlouhe navigaci. Ostrov samotny je velmi mlady a je nejvetsim ze souostrovi. Priblizne 100 km dlouhy a extreme uzky. Prvni zastavka byla na Punta Morena. Chodili jsme po lavovych polich. Ostra lave se rika "aa-lava" a te, ktera neni ostra, si ziskala pojmenovani "hoihoi lava". Opet se nam zadarilo a videli jsme plamenaky. Kazdopadne nakonec to byli zraloci (white-tipped), kteri nejvice zaplnili nasi fotokartu a dlouhe minuty na videokamere. Byli ctyri. Stara znama pisnicka - cucime, kochame se a fotime a ne a ne se zvednout. Snorchlovani se stave jeste lepsim, s kazdym dnem je to proste paradnejsi. Voda je pekelne studena, ale plavani s morskymi zelvami stoji za tu zimu. Odpoledne jsme stravili v 'pangach', protoze v Elisabeth bay se nesmi pristavat. Videli jsme zelvicky jak si to uzivaly, lvouny pri jejich hratkach v lagunach (kde se neda pouzit motor a musi se padlovat) a tucnaci se ukazali az kdyz jsme se pomalu vzdavali nadeje, ze je vubec uvidime. Cesta zpatky byla vylepsena nadhernym zapadem slunce - vlastne prvni poradny zapad co jsme byli na mori (ale nastesti to nebyl zapad posledni). Zustali jsme na palube do uplneho setmeni. V noci se nikam nepreplouvalo, takze si vsichni uzili klidnou noc.

Den sesty - stale na ostrove Isabella, tentokrat v Urbina bay. Tohle misto se kompletne zmenilo v roce 1954. Je to placka, ktera byla vytvorena vyzvednutim dna v tomto roce. Dno se vyzvedlo 3 az 7 metru nahoru v rozloze 6 km podel pobrezi a 1,3 km do vnitrozemi a na ostrove jsou porad k videni pozustatky koralu. Pred par lety se mistnim ochranarum prirody podarilo na ostrove vystrilet divoke kozy, ktere pustosili veskery porost a uzirali tak leguanum a hlavne zelvam. To ale znamenalo narust Galapagskych jestrabu, kdyz priblizne 75,000 koz jim spestrilo jejich jidelnicek. Spousty suchozemskych leguanu jsou momentalne hladove, v teto rocni dobe maji na pevnine malo jidla. Na druhou stranu morsti leguani se zrovna maji dobre. Pak se to zase vymeni a ti budou hladovet, zatimco suchozemsti si budou nacpavat bricha. Ti, co jsme je videli my, meli volnou kuzi po celem tele. Michal byl hrdina, rozhodl se nasledovat pruvodce a sel bosky. Zvladl vsechny pesinky, ostre kameny, ale horky pisek mu dal dost zabrat. Ani tady se nevzdal (prece to nevzda, kdyz uz dosel tak daleko!), ale byl vdecny za jakykoliv stin, ktery mu poskytl ulevu od variciho pisku. Jaka to musela byt pohoda skocit do more a snorchlovat rovnou z plaze. Voda byla tepla, 22 stupnu, dokonce i ja jsem odlozila neopren. Dalsi zastavka byla na ostrove Ferninanda, Punta Espinosa, nejzapadnejsi ostrov, ktery jsme navstivili. Stovky obrich morskych leguanu. Na skalach vypadali jako armada cekajici na povel. Bezkridli kormorani ztratili schopnost letat na Galapagach. Nemaji tu zadne nepritele a je tu spousta jidla, ve vode i na pevnine. Posledni dlouha preplavba. Opet jsme na palube a hledame velryby a delfiny. Nevideli jsme moc delfinu, jen par skakajicich po boku nasi lodi. Zato jsme videli spoustu kosatek. Slunicko zapadalo a tehdy jsem je spatrila, hejno ptaku krouzicich nad nimi. Bylo to blizko rovniku, u Volcan Ecuador , kdyz jsme na ne narazili. Kosatky skakaly, nahoru dolu, bylo jich hodne, jedna priblula uplne k nasi lodi, min nez 10 metru od nas. Uz bylo skoro tma, takze fotit je bylo temer nemozne. Jak kosatky udpluly, bylo tu nove dobrodruzstvi - prekroceni rovniku. Kapitan nas pozval na mustek na Amaretto koktejl a na GPS jsme sledovali nasi polohu. Podle vseho, kdyz si na rovniku, voda v umyvadle tece primo rovne do odpadu, zadny vir. Na jizni polokouli se vodni vir toci doleva, na severni zase doprava. Na rovniku stoji vejce na spicce bez problemu. Vsechno tohle samozrejme plati pro pevninu, na lodi se to tezko testuje. Nejzajimavejsi je pro me skutecnost, ze kdyz zavres oci a chces jit rovne po rovniku, po care, ktera je nakreslena na zemi, tak pry budes mit problem udrzet rovny smer. Priste to musim vyzkouset.

Den sedmy - ostrov Santiago. Skvele misto na pozorovani kozesinovych lachtanu (fur seals). Maji vetsi oci, spicaty nos a husty kozich. Znovu jsme videli obri morske leguany a volavky (yellow-crowned night heron). Pred obedem jsme snorchlovali z plaze a Misa nasel obrovskeho spiciho rejnoka (marbled ray). Plavali jsme dlouho kolem nej, ale rejnok se ani nehnul. Na tomhle miste jsme videli nejvic koralovych ryb a opet morske zelvy. Diky tomu, ze tam nebyla moc hloubka, tak viditelnost byla fantasticka. Par podarenych fotek z podvodniho fotaku. Pak se rychle nadlabnout a dalsi snorchlovani, z pangy. Tohle misto je zname po vyskyt Galapagskych tucnaku. Meli jsme stesti a videli jsme jich pet nebo dokonce sest. Jenom jeden plaval, ostatni si lebedili na skalach. Dostali jsme se tak na pul metru, asi bysme mohli i bliz az to lakalo te to si na ne sahnout, ale zustali jsme ve vode a oni na sutrech, co couhaly z vody. Tohle se ti kazdy den nepodari, dostat se takhle blizko. Okamzik, ktery si budes pamatovat. Opet viditelnost byla skvela, ale diky me blbosti (vyfotila jsem toho spoustu rano a nedala nabit fotak pres obed), baterka dlouho nevydrzela. Stejne, na par povedenych fotek to stacilo. Po snorcholovani jsme zastavili na ostrove Bartolome, ktery je znam pro sve vyhledy. Nejdriv jsme vysli 365 schodu a tim jsme se dostali az nahoru, odkud byly videt kratery a more kam az oko dohledlo (a to neprehanim!). Slunko prazilo, vitr foukal jak ve Wellingtonu a pri foceni jsme se hodne nasmali. Posledni koktejl a posledni noc na palube.

Den osmy - porad mame jeste jedno dobrodruzstvi pred sebou. Ranni projizdka v pangach a pozorovani blue-footed boobies pri krmeni. Stovky se jich shromazdi a lovi spolecne. Zameruji se hejna ryb jako jsou sardinky, ancovicky, makrely a flying fish. Taky basti chobotnice. Vrhaji se do oceanu z obrovskych vysek a plavou pod vodou za svou koristi. Takze hejna snidajicich blue-footed boobies uz jsme videli a byl nas cas na nasi posledni snidani na ostrovech. Byl to skvely vylet. Jedina otazka, ktera ted zustava, je - kdo probere vsechny ty fotky a upravi video?





Yellow Warbler|Rakosnik nebo neco podobneho
Crab|Krab
Sea Iguana|Morsky leguan
Vermilion flycatcher|Cerveny Lejsek
Tortoise|Suchozemska zelva
Albatros chick|Albatrosi mlade
Wawed Albatros
Blue footed boobie|Modronohy boobie
Blue footed boobie|Modronohy boobie
Tropic bird
Herons|Heroni
White tipped shark|Zralok bilocipy
Post barrel on Floreana|Postovni barel na Floreane
Our cabin|Nase kabina
On the board|Na nejhornejsi palube
View from top of Bartolome Island|Vyhled z vrsku Bartolome ostrova
Orca - killer whale|Orka
Sea Iguanas|Morsti leguani
Land Iguana|Suchozemsky leguan
Galapagos Pinguin|Galapagsky tucnak
Green Sea Turtle|Zelena morska zelva
Underwater fauna|Podmorsky zivot
Sunset over our boat|Zapad slunce za nasi lodi
Whoops!|Hopla!

Green sea turtle|Zelena morska zelva

8 October 2008

Gordon Rocks


Today was our last diving day - 2 dives at Gordon Rocks and it was just wonderful - some pictures from are below.
Tomorrow we start the sailing and just after that we fly back to New Zealand so do not expect to hear from us in following 8-10 days.



Dnes byl nas posledni potapeci den - 2 ponory na Gordon Rocks a hodne se povedly - nejake fotky viz nize. U popisu fotek se predem omlouvam za preklady do cestiny, ktere jsou v nekterych pripadech nejspis uplne mimo - anglicke nazvy by mely byt spravne.
Zitra zaciname plavbu po ostrovech a pak hned letime zpatky na Zeland, tak predpokladam ze se nasledujich 8-10 dnu neozveme.



Turtle|Zelva
Sting ray|Rejnok
Crayfish|Langusta
Eagle ray|´Orli´ rejnok
Manta ray|Manta
Moray eal|Murena
Barracudas|Barakudy


Hammer head shark|Zralok kladivoun


And more of them|A dalsi